Travel. Tonsai: more than climbing
If we think if the world as a magnificent, leather-bound book, it is becoming increasingly filled up with stories, places and foreign cultures. What once were blank pages are packed with well-read information. And, with advances in technology and air travel becoming increasingly cost-efficient, more people than ever are contributing to these pages. Yes, tourism is vital for the development of some countries, but more and more, travellers want to discover the most unread pages for themselves.
Thailand, in recent years, has become an epicentre of travel. From those who seek the epitome of luxury to those on a shoestring, backpacker budget. It caters to all who seek adventure and relaxation. With multiple flights into Phuket International Airport every day, it attracts huge numbers. The brilliance of the approach into Phuket foretells the beauty of Thailand: azure seas that surround limestone cliffs and lush green jungle. For many though, Phuket has become too saturated by tourism to experience the unmarred adventures so many seek. By taking a boat, first from North East Rassada pier (Phuket) to Phi Phi or Ao Nang and then a smaller, traditional Longtail to a haven accessible only by sea, you can immerse yourself in a beach that truly encapsulates the essence of Thailand.
Tonsai has gained popularity for its harmonious pairing of adventure and relaxation. A Dutch expedition discovered it to be a climbers haven in 1987. The group first scaled the limestone karsts that rose straight up from the beach and out from the Andaman sea with the old-school mountaineering style of rock climbing — sport climbing wouldn’t become popularised until the following year and not brought to Thailand for a while longer. The natural beauty that greeted those first climbers continue to greet those who venture to Tonsai. It is unparalleled in its sublime stature. Great columns loom from the jungle and miniature climbers can be seen scaling walls such as Dum’s Kitchen or the Tyrolean Wall—or from the multi-pitch that seems to start directly from inside Freedom Bar, right on the beach! Tonsai is more rustic and rugged around the edges than neighbouring Rai Leh peninsula, a more established travel destination. Defined, too by its incredible routes for climbers and jungle and also the growing number of beach resorts. Tonsai remains—for now—relatively untouched by modernisation. Primitive bungalows are the choice of those who venture here and can be bargained down to as little as 80 baht per night in low season (2014). There are two resorts on the beachfront, but most are located in the jungle behind, along little dirt tracks. The handful of beach bars and restaurants become the nightly pulse of the beach. The fire poi demonstrations, copious orders of Sangsom (sugarcane rum) and marijuana, slack lining daredevils and local climbing guides-turned-bartenders are sewn together by travellers who cannot find a reason to leave—and all of it, together, defines this as a unique destination.
Things to do
The beach predominantly attracts rock climbers. It has incredible bouldering, lead climbing, and multi-pitches for experienced climbers and novices alike. However, recently it’s started attracting anyone who loves to relish in adventurous travel. There is a landlocked lagoon that’s reachable by a steep path that passes climbing routes. Filled by saltwater, it empties again at low tide. It’s a relaxing and hidden spot for a quiet dip if the bars on the beach get too much. A lookout cave is concealed above Escher wall, missable save for the four rickety bamboo ladders that ascend from Freedom Bar on the eastern side. The cave is pitch black, so take a torch, unless you're feeling particularly daring!
Phra Nang Shrine is visited by two distinct kinds of people: Local women wishing to increase their fertility. They pay tributes to the many wooden phalluses. And travellers who are willing to kayak or scramble by foot over half an hour to gawk at the penis statues. Kayaks are available to rent from the dive school, which can be used to see the shrine, explore the cove or paddle over to Railay (Rai Leh) West. Though it’s renowned for its climbing routes, you can scuba dive around Tonsai's surrounding islands.
Rai Leh, although more built-up, boasts paradisiacal white sand beaches, as opposed to Tonsai’s smaller beach that is lined entirely by trees and beach bars and, sadly, increasing boat traffic. Rai Leh's luxurious resorts and bungalows cater to families. However, Tonsai is becoming more family-friendly and you can now even book rooms in some of the higher-end bungalows such as Dream Valley Resort, or Tonsai Bay Resort.
Like a tight rope with a little more bounce, there is a slackline suspended between two jutting rocks above the sea, several hundred metres from where the Longtails moor on the beach. One of the local climbing instructors/slackline enthusiasts would proudly tell anyone who would listen about his fearlessness at crossing that slackline. Climbers love to slackline, so I found out. They are dotted around the beach. Walking on a bouncy strap suspended between two trees becomes addictive, fast. And it is the most popular pastime in the area.
Nearby ‘Chicken Island’, is famed for its snorkelling. It’s possible— especially if you get chatting to one of the local boatmen—to charter a longtail to explore the surrounding uninhabited islands that are perfect snorkelling spots.
Lastly, but certainly not least is deep water soloing. Catch a boat to one of the numerous cliff-islands that jut from the ocean and join the climbers clad in sea-warn climbing shoes. Dive in, swim to the rock and traverse the eroded cliffs and stalactites that protrude. When you can't go boulder any more, you let go and jump into the ocean. It was deep water soloing that fortified my passion for climbing whilst on Tonsai. As introductions to new sports go, spending three weeks discovering not only climbing, but learning and experiencing it in some of the most sublime natural architecture of caves, columns, cliffs and archways is enough to make many sway in favour of the carefree, bohemian climbing lifestyle that Tonsai offers to all; climbing expert or novice.
Tonsai to Rai Leh
The jungle pass is a trail that must be carefully navigated (especially at night) with a torch to reach Rai Leh from Tonsai beach. Alternatively, there is a waterside scramble over coral exposed during low tide that links Railey to Tonsai. Because even the nearest beaches are a tricky scramble or boat ride away, your feeling of seclusion in paradise is heightened. After a day of climbing, you undoubtedly will find yourself under the stars, listening to reggae, and sipping on a cold beer. Secluded in paradise with new friends sharing a beer with you.
Eat and Drink
You'll need plenty of fuel for adventuring. There are some well-loved eateries like Mama’s chicken, a small shack next to a juice bar that offers up great grub for anyone planning a day of climbing. Try the Thai egg salad, a variation on the traditional spicy green papaya salad with fried egg mixed in. For the carnivores, there's the “the most mouthwatering chicken ever”. For breakfast-lovers, there are pancakes and porridges—and everyone devours Mama’s infamous banana bread. The juice bar next door offers everything from mango to Oreo smoothies. There is a handful of plain, yet delicious places to eat, with your feet still touching the sand as you sample all the favourite local Thai delicacies. They specialise in simple, tasty seafood.
Whether you heard about it by chance or you got tipped by a fellow climber, the natural beauty of this place is the magic spell it casts on everyone who sets foot in Tonsai. However long you stay, whether it's two days, two weeks or two months, you leave inspired and at peace.
